Curate Your Own Adventure

Reviewing Museums & Heritage Places

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    • Hamburg: Medizinhistorisches Museum

      Hamburg: Medizinhistorisches Museum

      Today we travelled from Berlin to Hamburg to visit the Medizinhistorisches Museum or Medical Historical Museum Hamburg. The train from Berlin to Hamburg takes approximately two hours and runs through some pleasant scenery. As well as having an amazing medical history museum, Hamburg is a great city to explore. Definitely worth a day trip at the very least.

      Unlike the other two museums I’ve reviewed from this trip, the one in Hamburg has no pathology or anatomy specimens. It does have a range of moulages or wax models, but no human tissue on display. For this reason, photography without flash is allowed throughout the entire museum.

      Context: Museum

      The museum is part of the University Medical Center Hamburg-Eppendorf. This is a teaching hospital attached to the University of Hamburg. It’s also the largest hospital in Hamburg with just over 1 700 patient beds.

      I tried looking for more information about the museum building and came across a post by Inga Marie – a tour guide from Hamburg. Thanks for the extra information. The building was constructed by architect Fritz Schumacher in the early 20th century. It was built for the pathology department and situated on the outskirts of the hospital. This was to prevent diseases spreading to other parts of the hospital. The original 1926 autopsy room still stands and is an absolute highlight of the museum.

      Today, the building is home to the museum. It’s currently undergoing external renovations with scaffolding covering the entire building. Despite how things might look, the museum is still open.

      Museum Entrance

      Context: Collection

      The collection focuses on the medical history of Hamburg but speaks to broader themes and topics. As mentioned earlier, only medical objects are on display, no specimens. The moulages are specimen-like wax models showing various diseases. Arguably, you can view these as specimens. But in terms of human tissue, there is none on display.

      Their collection spans centuries and they are still collecting today. I am going to write about their contemporary collection later. The main objects on display are books and ledgers, photographs, medical devices, and medical instruments. There are a few textiles including a white lab coat from the 19th century. From what I can tell, the museum also receives loans from other institutions to supplement their exhibitions.

      19th Century Lab Coat

      Context: Display and Layout

      There are three levels of exhibitions to explore. When you enter the museum, there is a small ticket desk. Behind the desk is the entry to the heritage rooms, including a hand washing room, teaching theatre, and autopsy room. The current exhibition in these three spaces displays objects and information surrounding pandemics.

      On the next level are eight permanent exhibition rooms covering topics such as becoming a doctor, medicine and technology, the hospital, moulages, Nazi medicine, histology/pathology, disease outbreaks, and genetic diseases.

      The final level is a temporary exhibition space. At the moment, there is an exhibition on Lenin – pathology, psychology, and propaganda. We didn’t spend much time on this level.

      Highlight: Grappling with Difficult Histories

      Located on the second level of the museum is one of the most confronting yet significant exhibitions covering Nazi medicine. Outside each of the eight rooms on this level is a thematic panel. For this particular room, the panel covers how patients from the hospital were victims of medical murder under National Socialism. How they end the panel is particularly powerful; reminding visitors that these crimes were “conceived in government bureaus, court-rooms, and universities. They were committed by doctors, pastors, nurses and lawyers.”

      Nazi Medicine Display

      Inside the room are a variety of objects and stories, respectfully displayed forming a thoughtful memorial. The history presented is transparent and highlights the victims and their experience. I felt so inspired by this room as it proves you can display difficult stories in an accessible and approachable way to best educate your visitors.

      Highlight: Contemporary Collection Display

      In the pandemic exhibition on the ground level there are a lot of objects relating to the Covid-19 pandemic. I want to share three highlight objects that really had an impact.

      1. Covid-19 Tests

      On one of the tables is a giant box filled with used Covid-19 tests. Seeing anything in a large number has an impact on me.

      COVID-19 Tests

      2. Vaccine Vials

      These 426 Pfizer vials have been arranged to form the shape of Germany. I saw this as the vaccines giving hope to the country and a way through the lockdowns and isolation.

      Vaccine Vials

      3. Homeschooling

      I chose this particular digital element because it is a screen playing TikTok videos on homeschooling, created by Hamburg residents. Great to see how a digital collection can add to a display.

      Homeschooling Display

      I have read and seen so much about collecting Covid-19 stories. Seeing how another country has collected/displayed this history was definitely a highlight.

      Highlight: Old and New

      I cannot finish this blog post without mentioning the combination of old and new. The pandemic exhibition starts in the original wash room where doctors would prepare before performing an autopsy. Next to the original sinks are art installations and advertisements covering the importance of washing your hands to stop the spread of Covid-19.

      Old Preparation Room

      In the autopsy room, each table is a different theme that relates to pandemics. Laying over some of the autopsy tables is a clear Perspex sheet, supporting labels and some objects. Some of the tables have been left empty so you can see the original without obstruction. The blend of old and new is seamless and adds so much to the experience. Mixing heritage places with museum displays can work so well.

      Historical Autopsy Room

      Highlight: Object

      My favourite object (or I should say, objects) in the museum is this wall of anatomical illustrations. I think they are from the 19th century (forgot to take a photograph of the label!). They are so well curated into a feature wall that grabs your attention. I adore old anatomical illustrations so these were the objects for me!

      Anatomical Illustrations

      Conclusion

      I’m writing this blog post on the train ride home and, at this stage, I can honestly say this is in my top three medical museums I’ve visited. They have done an amazing job communicating such complex histories. I’m so glad we decided to spend the day in Hamburg and see this wonderful collection.

    • Berlin: Berliner Medizinhistorische Museum der Charité

      Berlin: Berliner Medizinhistorische Museum der Charité

      My experience at Med Uni Graz was truly incredible – a career highlight. The Department of Macroscopic and Clinical Anatomy team was so welcoming and taught me all about their teaching facilities and specimen collection. I have since left Graz and ventured on to Berlin.

      My first medical museum post-Graz has been the Berliner Medizinhistroische Museum der Charité or Berlin Museum of Medical History. Not only do they have an extensive pathology specimen collection, but also a range of historical objects. Understandably, there are photography restrictions in the pathology specimen section, so I’ll only be sharing images of the historical objects.

      Entrance to Museum

      Context: Museum

      I could write at length about the Charité Universitätsmedizin Berlin campus, where the museum is located. It is filled with these eerie-looking red brick buildings, each with its own rich history. For this post, I will focus on the museum. I am taking a tour of the campus on Saturday so watch this space.

      Brain in Entrance

      The museum’s website has a great section on the history of the building and the collection which I will summarise here. The pathology specimens were collected by Rudolf Virchow, a famous German physician who had a special interest in pathology. He amassed this significant collection not only to assist with medical teaching, but to increase the public’s access to knowledge on health and disease. By 1901, Virchow had collected approximately 23 000 specimens. All he needed now was a place to display them and use them in teaching.

      In 1899, the museum opened and under Virchow, had three primary aims:

      1. Encourage private study of specimens by medical students
      2. Teach medical students
      3. Teach the interested public.

      Between 1914 and 1939, the museum closed to the public and was used exclusively for medical student teaching. While the collection grew to almost 35 000 specimens, only 1 800 remained at the end of World War II. In addition, the building was severely damaged by bombings. The museum and collection were unused for many decades. Fast forward to the fall of the Berlin Wall. The museum was rebuilt with the aim of becoming a collection for the public. It officially opened in 1998.

      Context: Collection

      Gallstone Collection

      I’ve touched a bit on the pathology collection in the previous section but I wanted to add more context. When you visit the museum today, you can expect to see around 750 pathology and anatomy specimens. The majority are potted specimens but there are a few plastinated also on display.

      The specimens are isolated to the second level of the museum, displayed in eight large glass cases. They are divided by body system with a section also on abnormal foetus development. Each system starts with a healthy specimen for context. There is a lot of text accompanying each specimen which is quite overwhelming. If you are interested in reading everything, take your time and have frequent rests to prevent visitor fatigue.

      Throughout the rest of the museum are an assortment of medical history objects including Virchow’s work desk, wax moulages displaying a range of pathological conditions, an iron lung, and objects from patients admitted to the hospital.

      Context: Display and Layout

      In total, there are three levels of exhibitions. The top level displays medical history objects spread across two rooms. One room focuses on the stories of individuals which I will talk about later. The other room traces the history of the hospital and the history of medical inventions such as X-rays and microscopes. Photography is allowed on this level. The next level down is where you will find the pathology and anatomy specimens, moulages, and objects relating to Virchow. The final level is reserved for temporary or travelling exhibitions.

      Window Decal

      Next to the museum’s entrance are the ruins of Virchow’s lecture theatre. These ruins have been stabilized and the room is now used for presentations, lectures, and events.

      Highlight: Specimen Pot Decal

      On the back wall inside the pathology specimen room, there is this incredible decal on the wall. I asked a security guard if I could take a photograph and they very kindly said yes. As you can see, this decal adds so much context to what you are viewing. For someone unfamiliar with potted specimens, I imagine it is a great reference point in understanding the preservation technique.

      Anatomy of a Specimen Pot

      Highlight: Stories

      This one is quite general so I want to provide an example to illustrate. On the top floor of the museum, there is a room displaying patient stories. Running along both sides of the room are five patient stories – so ten in total. Each story is accompanied by a thematic panel, a small display case of personal objects, a large object, and a tall display case with objects to add historical and cultural context,

      The example I want to share is the story of polio. The thematic panel tells the story of Hans G., a three-year old patient who suffered from what doctors initially thought was meningitis. As paralysis spread across his body, it became clear that he was suffering from polio. He was transferred to an iron lung for six days. He gradually regained some strength and underwent rehabilitation to re-learn how to walk.

      On display next to the panel is Hans’ photo album with images of the hospital, his healthcare team, and his family. There is also a teddy bear that belonged to Hans. The large object in the middle is an iron lung. No matter how many times I see an iron lung, they still shock me. An absolutely enduring symbol of why vaccinations are needed and why they matter. The large display case contains objects relating to the development of a vaccine for polio. There are also some German health posters encouraging people to get the vaccine. The other side of the case has a panel on the disease itself and a leg splint used by a victim of polio for support.

      Polio Patient Photographs
      Iron Lung Machine

      This kind of story telling adds a sense of humanity to the museum. Specimens could have easily been included in these displays but I understand why they were not (photography, etc).

      Conclusion

      I am looking forward to learning more about the Charité campus on Saturday. When we visited the museum, there was a large school group on a guided tour which interrupted the flow of our visit and made everything quite cramped and crowded. If possible, visit on a weekend. It is a wonderful collection that tells some really significant stories. A definite if you find yourself in Berlin!

    • Vienna: Pathologisch-Anatomische Sammlung im Narrenturm

      Vienna: Pathologisch-Anatomische Sammlung im Narrenturm

      I am so excited to be in Europe for the next month visiting Austria, Germany, the Netherlands, and England. Next week, I’m travelling to Graz, Austria, for a one-week Erasmus mobility grant awarded by my university, The University of Queensland, and the Medical University of Graz. I will be joining the anatomy department in Graz to learn about their anatomy/pathology museum and medical teaching techniques. Also on this trip, I am taking the opportunity to visit as many anatomy and pathology museums as possible.

      For each museum, I’m going to start with some context, followed by one or two highlights. Rather than a particular object or list of favourite objects, I want the highlights to be, for example, an effective interactive or a way in which an exhibition is displayed. If possible, I’ll also share a highlight object. The point of this is to keep a written record of my visits while also sharing these fascinating museums.

      First on the list is the Pathologisch-Anatomische Sammlung im Narrenturm – the Pathology and Anatomy Collection in the Fool’s Tower, Vienna. I’ll note here that the museum prohibits photography. For this reason, there will only be a couple of images in this post of the outside of the museum and the introductory panel.

      Narrenturm Building Sign

      Context: Narrenturm Building

      The building where the collection is housed and displayed was once the ‘Insane Asylum of Vienna’ hence the term ‘Fool’s Tower’. In the late 1700s, Emperor Joseph II commissioned and funded the building’s construction. In 1784, it opened as an asylum, the first institution in Europe exclusively built for patients requiring mental health treatment. This was treatment deemed necessary and appropriate at the time. It is a five-storey tower with approximately 28 cells per storey. A central corridor connects the cells together. While walking around, I thought it resembled something like a panopticon.

      In the mid-1800s, the tower was deemed unsuitable to operate as a mental health facility. It closed in 1866 with all remaining patients transferred to nearby psychiatric hospitals. Between 1866 and 1971, the building mostly functioned as storage for supplies and accommodation for hospital workers. In 1971, it opened as the Federal Pathological-Anatomical Museum and became part of the Natural History Museum Vienna in 2012.

      Narrenturm Building

      Context: Collection

      The pathology and anatomy collection dates back approximately 200 years with the first specimen acquired in the late 1700s. Today, there are more than 50 000 specimens cared for by the museum which is an unbelievably large number. During your visit, you see only a handful of these specimens. They are on display alongside wax moulages, historical objects, photographs, and models.

      It’s hard to tell the exact extent of the collection, but from what we saw, every major organ is represented as well as a wide variety of diseases.

      Context: Display and Layout

      Narrenturm Map

      The museum is isolated to the ground floor of the tower and follows the circular layout. As you walk around, each cell contains a theme or body system. In total, there are nineteen displays covering the history of pathology, pathology today, body systems, and modern-day diseases. It is an effective way to organise the museum, providing a focus for each room and a clear narrative you can build upon.

      At the entrance to each room is a context panel, in both German and English, stating the theme of the room and what is on display. Every room contains two display cases along the side walls and an interactive screen or larger object in the middle. The rooms did feel a little cramped when four or five visitors were inside, but we just paced ourselves and waited until the room was empty. There is seating outside most of the rooms.

      At the end of the museum there is an art installation, special exhibition on moulages, and a gift shop. The shop sells museum-specific merchandise as well as texts relating to medicine and some anatomy-themed items.

      Before discussing my two highlights, I want to mention that there is an emphasis on displaying these specimens without sensationalism. There is respect given to the specimens and they are really used to their full educational potential.

      Highlight: Interactives

      My first highlight is the types of interactives used in the museum and how they contribute to the overall visitor experience. There are two in particular I want to document.

      1. Histology Touchscreen

      In the room covering histology and histopathology there is an interactive screen where you can take a histology quiz. Using visual clues, you are asked to match close-up histology images to ones that have been zoomed out. Once you have correctly guessed the pair, you can learn more about the organ or disease. It is a simple but effective way to teach some basic histology.

      2. Augmented Reality Station

      In the middle of the musculoskeletal room there is a giant television and camera. When you stand in front of the screen, an augmented reality program projects different body systems onto your body. You can select to see your muscles, bones, nervous system, cardiovascular system, and digestive system. As you move around, you can see how the systems move with your body. It is such a great use of an interactive that is both fun and educational.

      Highlight: Decal on the Walls in the Body Systems

      Another highlight I want to mention is the decal on the back walls inside each body system room. As you step inside the room, you see an outline of the body with the relevant system highlighted. The main organ of that system has its own decal with some further information and major features labelled. This provides context for the specimens and diseases that you can refer back to at any stage of your visit.

      Highlight: Specimen

      There are so many fascinating specimens to explore that really shed light on how disease can affect the body. In the room covering infectious diseases there is a section of brain from an individual who died from Smallpox. I have read so much about Smallpox in my current role so to see a specimen showcasing the disease really had an impact.

      Conclusion

      I am so glad I had the opportunity to visit this museum and see one of the largest pathology/anatomy collections in the world. I would strongly recommend a visit if you feel comfortable viewing human specimens. It is open Wednesday to Saturday between 10am and 5pm. You can take a guided tour but I believe they are mostly in German.

    • Auckland: Auckland Art Gallery Toi o Tāmaki

      Auckland: Auckland Art Gallery Toi o Tāmaki

      I’ve spent the last week in Auckland attending the Australasian Institute of Anatomical Sciences conference. It was a fascinating conference, and I was grateful to have the opportunity to present on a current work project. I had a couple of free days before the conference so visited both the Auckland Art Gallery Toi o Tāmaki and Auckland War Memorial Museum. This post is going to focus on one exhibition currently on display at the gallery, titled Gothic Returns: Fuseli to Fomison.

      Layout

      The exhibition is along a corridor on the mezzanine level of the gallery. Mid-way through is the entrance to the international historical art display. I wish this exhibition had more room to breath. I understand maximising the use of space but it was extremely cramped. There were four other people in the exhibition with me and it was a bit of a struggle to see all the artworks. I also had to spend about half an hour ducking in and out of the historical art display just to let the crowd through.

      Aim

      The main introductory panel explores why the theme of gothic is on display. It also describes gothic as ‘almost virus-like’ in that it’s a theme that has evolved and developed over time. There have been consistent elements such as melancholia, ominous moods, and things that unsettle. How this is represented, however, has changed. The panel also contextualises the theme for Auckland, describing how gothic flourished in New Zealand in the 1990s. The gallery’s gothic collection is impressive, with both historic and contemporary works on display.

      The aim of the exhibition is stated at the end of the panel: this exhibition ‘unites old with new, playfully inviting viewers to enter the ever-enticing dark side of the imagination.’ After spending some time viewing the artworks on display, I can confirm it does achieve this aim and has a good mix of mediums as well as gothic genres.

      Highlight Artworks

      As always, I want to share some highlights. This exhibition was right up my alley with everything from horror films to cemeteries represented. Even though it isn’t a large exhibition, it is definitely a case of quality over quantity.

      1. Henry Fuseli, Study for the Three Witches in Macbeth, circa. 1783, oil on canvas

      Study for the Three Witches in Macbeth

      One of the first works on display is a study on the three witches from Shakespeare’s play Macbeth. I adore this artwork and the atmosphere it conjures. The labels are (sigh, white text on a grey background) written using accessible language and don’t presume the reader has a degree in art history. For that reason, I really engaged with the labels. I learnt with this work, for example, that it was created in opposition to the Neoclassicism movement that was gripping Britain at the time. I had also never taken note of the death-head moth floating just above their hands. The use of light and shadows is what strikes me about this artwork and adds an ominous flare.

      2. Peter Siddell, Tombstone Angel, 1975, acrylic on hardboard

      Tombstone Angel

      Opposite the three witches is this painting of Auckland cemetery by Peter Siddell. As a sidenote, I did spend time in this cemetery throughout the conference. The label for this artwork describes the scene as unsettling. Maybe I’ve spent too much time in cemeteries but to me, this doesn’t seem unsettling. Rather than being quiet and creepy, I see it as peaceful. It looks like a burial environment surrounded by nature and still cared for, as seen by the open door. The open door can look a bit creepy, but I actually see it as welcoming.

      3. Tony Fomison, The Hand, 1970, oil on hessian on board

      The Hand

      As I’m writing this I’m becoming acutely aware of the lack of female artists on display, which is a shame. This work displays a disembodied hand, covered in light and shadows. It is meant to be reminiscent of a horror film prop. The hand gesture conveys either a warning to stop or someone asking for help. I selected this work as a highlight because it reminds me of the three witches study that plays with light and shadow.

      4. Ronnie van Hout, Psycho, 1999, house model

      Psycho

      This little model of the Victorian mansion from Psycho was my favourite artwork. On the surface it looks like a cool model, transporting you into the world of horror. Almost a Beetlejuice vibe. When you read the label, you learn that the artist was creating a metaphor for his tortured mind. In the upstairs window you can see him wielding a knife. Again, I would have missed this detail if I didn’t read the label.

      5. Tony Fomison, Skull Face 1970, oil on canvas board

      Skull Face 1970

      My final highlight artwork is this one by Tony Fomison. I selected it because both the work and label relate to the significance of art in the space of anatomy. Fomison used anatomical models to add that authenticity while dealing with themes of empathy and horror. I can definitely appreciate those while viewing this work.

      Final Thoughts

      To finish, I have two final thoughts. As I’ve said above, the lack of women artists in this space was disappointing to see. If it were a bigger exhibition space, I would have also enjoyed some different cultural perspectives on gothic. I also want to say that each time I come to New Zealand, I am impressed with how they integrate Māori language into their practice and culture. All of the exhibition labels in the gallery are written in both English and Māori.

      Gothic Returns is on display until end of August, 2025. On the whole, the gallery is a fantastic free space to explore, open daily from 10am – 5pm.

    • Charleston: Charleston Museum

      Charleston: Charleston Museum

      I finally have the time to write another blog post about our recent trip to America. The focus for this post will be the Charleston Museum – America’s first museum (according to them). The museum is a short walk from the city centre but also has a small car park if you are driving. It’s not a huge museum, but does have a good selection of objects to tell the story of Charleston. Rather than review the entire museum, I’ve settled on one exhibition I’m excited to share: Lovely and Lethal. I was immediately enthralled and spent almost our entire museum visit in this exhibition. As you’ll see throughout the post, the graphics are incredible and an interesting way to address some controversial and difficult topics. The aim of the exhibition is stated in the introductory panel, ‘are these pieces a la mode or just macabre? Discover the consequences of style.’ I’m going to go through each theme of the exhibition and share a highlight object.

      Theme 1: Birds of a Feather

      Birds of a Feather

      The first theme is titled Birds of a Feather and contains a selection of bird feather fans and hats. The display mimics a scene in Alfred Hitchcock’s The Birds when a flock of birds’ attack Annie Hayworth (played by Suzanne Pleshette). Here you will find the introductory panel that clearly lays out the three main exhibition themes: negative impacts of unregulated materials, workers in the fashion industry, and impact of fashion on the natural environment. As well as fashion objects from their collection, there are also a variety of taxidermy animals from their Natural History collection distributed throughout.

      Each theme has a graphic-like poster, a thematic label, and individual labels if needed. For this theme, the bird feather objects have been selected as they represent all three themes. Many of these fans were treated with poisonous chemicals causing harm to both those who created them and those who used them. In addition, the demand for feathers directly caused the extinction of some species.

      Theme 2: Arsenic and Old Lace

      Arsenic and Old Lace

      Following the exhibition to the left is the theme Arsenic and Old Lace. This theme focuses on Scheele’s Green invented in 1775. This shade was made so vibrant by the inclusion of arsenic. Those who worked with the dye and those who wore it experienced such symptoms as rashes, headaches and open sores. Eventually, exposure led to death. In front of you are a variety of Scheele Green objects to explore including some gloves, a bag, and a hat.

      Arsenic and Old Lace

      Theme 3: Pretty Poison

      Pretty Poison

      Pretty Poison expands on the theme of toxins by covering aniline dyes and radioactive poisoning. The thematic label also makes the point that this isn’t just a historical problem. In 2022, shops such as Shein were found to have excessive lead and phthalate in their clothing. Two highlight objects tell the story of how mourning the loss of a loved one might have also led to your death. Black mourning bonnets and veils created in the 19th century were a visual way to show you were in mourning. Many of these were dyed with an aniline dye, containing a high concentration of the chemical nitrobenzene. Unfortunately, this leads to cyanosis or lack of oxygen in the blood. At first, you would feel dizzy. Then, the lack of oxygenated blood causes gangrene or blackening of the extremities. Finally, it can cause death.

      Pretty Poison

      Theme 4: Bodies Bodies Bodies

      Bodies Bodies Bodies

      As well as being the name of a recently released fantastic horror film, this theme covers body modification and how we have compromised our health to fit a fashion and body ideal. A standout object in this section is the extreme red corset fitted over a skirt. Just looking at the corset is uncomfortable. There is also a stack of stiff starched collars that could literally choke their owners to death all for the sake of looking the part.

      Bodies Bodies Bodies

      Theme 5: Murder at the Vanities

      Murder at the Vanities

      You can see by now that the theme names are very clever. This theme is all about cosmetics and the ingredients within them that are dangerous. This theme also very importantly raises the issue of race. For example, there is pressure for Black women to fit the standard ideal of straight hair. Using hair relaxants loaded with chemicals, such as formaldehyde, is incredibly dangerous and currently these products are under review. On the vanity is a mirror made from ivorine, or a plastic developed as a substitute for ivory. It was known to spontaneously combust.

      Murder at the Vanities

      Theme 6: Crimes of Fashion: Workplaces

      Crimes of Fashion: Workplaces

      We are now heading into the second major overarching theme – workers in the fashion industry. Crimes of Fashion: Workplaces, touches on the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory fire. I highly recommend listening to the Disaster Area Podcast episode if you would like to learn more. Basically, these shirtwaists were all the fashion in the early 1900s. In 1911, a horrific fire broke out in the factory killing 146 employees who were mostly young Italian and Jewish immigrants. When the fire started, they tried to escape through the emergency exits but found they were locked to prevent anyone stealing and running. A complete disaster ensued that eventually led to some law reform surrounding workplace conditions. This theme also covers the story of the 2013 Rana Plaza factory collapse in Bangladesh. Highlighting how many corners can be cut when creating a safe work environment for textile industry workers just goes to show how some things never change.

      Crimes of Fashion: Workplaces

      Crimes of Fashion: Materials

      This is more a sub-theme that focuses on materials hazardous to a textile worker. For example, mercury was used to soften fur to make hats in the 18th and 19th centuries. Today, those who sandblast jeans to create distressed denim can suffer from silicosis, the same condition those working with stone benchtops are also at risk of developing. It can cause inflammation and scarring in the lungs. What chemicals are used in manufacturing also pose a threat to the environment. Fast fashion is increasing the need to burn clothing so just think of how many toxins are released through this process. I forgot to pick a highlight object for this section so you can tell I was getting a bit fatigued.

      Theme 8: Shell and Crossbones

      Shell and Crossbones

      This theme is all about ivory and how it was used in the 18th and 19th centuries for accessories, jewellery, and sewing supplies (amongst other things). As the thematic label points out, despite laws trying to ban not only ivory but other animal products too, there is still a black market. In this section you can see entire elephant tusks that would have been on display as home decor.

      Shell and Crossbones

      Theme 9: Wild Kingdom

      Wild Kingdom

      The second last theme, Wild Kingdom, highlights objects made from leather and fur. For a western audience, these items were usually the result of hunting. Then, animals were raised for the purpose of fur harvesting. The label does, however, point out that there are many First Nations and Indigenous peoples worldwide who sustainably continue to integrate fur, for example, into their clothing and cultural practice. In the image above, you can just see the edge of a leopard fur hat and collar.

      Theme 10: Flock Together

      Flock Together

      The final theme is Flock Together. This links back to that first theme and makes the exhibition feel complete. A highlight object here is the coat lined with ostrich feathers.

      Flock Together

      Logistical Information

      Lovely and Lethal is on display until 20 April 2025. Entry is included in a general entry admission ticket. For more information, visit their website: https://www.charlestonmuseum.org/exhibits/current/66/lovely–lethal.

    • Sleepy Hollow, New York, Atlanta, Charleston, and Savannah: Historic Cemeteries

      Sleepy Hollow, New York, Atlanta, Charleston, and Savannah: Historic Cemeteries

      One type of heritage place that has been at the top of our itinerary for almost every city we’ve visited is historic cemeteries and graveyards. I’m excited to write about the ones we have explored. As well as a bit of context, I’ll also share whether or not we did a tour, walked around on our own, etc. Before starting the list, I want to say there are many reasons to visit a cemetery. For me, they are peaceful green spaces where you can learn numerous stories that weave together to paint a picture of society and culture. The cemetery itself can tell you much about a city or town. I also enjoy the aesthetic of a cemetery and viewing all the architecture and statues. Two of the cemeteries on this list have been on my must-visit list for years – Sleepy Hollow and Bonaventure. I am going to start with the former.

      1. Sleepy Hollow Cemetery – Sleepy Hollow

      The first cemetery we visited was Sleepy Hollow Cemetery in the village of, no surprises here, Sleepy Hollow. You are likely to know this village from The Legend of Sleepy Hollow, a 1820 short story by Washington Irving. This story has been made into a film and is rife in popular culture – especially the image of the headless horseman. The cemetery opened on October 29, 1849, and was partly founded by Washington Irving who is buried within the grounds. Today, it stretches across 90 acres and has approximately 46 000 burials. As well as Irving, Sleepy Hollow Cemetery is the final resting place for Andrew Carnegie, Walter Chrysler, Elizabeth Arden, William Rockefeller, and Louisa May Alcott.

      Sleepy Hollow Cemetery

      If you are visiting in October or November, there are multiple ways to explore the cemetery. Daylight tours, night time lantern tours, and special interest tours run all throughout both months. We wanted to visit the cemetery early in the day, so opted to explore on our own. It is very well sign-posted and there are maps so you can easily make your way around. Below are a few photographs of the grounds including the grave of Irving.

      Sleepy Hollow Cemetery
      Sleepy Hollow Cemetery
      Sleepy Hollow Cemetery
      Sleepy Hollow Cemetery

      Sleepy Hollow Cemetery is open between 8am and 4.30pm (Monday to Thursday), 8am – 4pm (Friday), and 8.30am – 4pm (Saturday and Sunday).

      2. The Trinity Churchyard Graveyard – New York

      Right near Wall Street in New York is Trinity Church. Surrounding this church are a number of graves with the oldest being that of Richard Churcher who died in 1681. Perhaps the most famous individuals buried here are Alexander Hamilton, Eliza Schuyler Hamilton, and Angelica Schuyler Church. We walked around the cemetery on our own to see these graves.

      The Trinity Churchyard Graveyard
      The Trinity Churchyard Graveyard

      There are a couple of other cemeteries I’d like to see in New York so watch this space for future trips.

      The Trinity Churchyard is open daily between 8.30am and 4pm.

      3. Oakland Cemetery – Atlanta

      Oakland Cemetery is located in Atlanta, Georgia and is the oldest public park in the city. A great way to see this cemetery is to join a 90-minute overview tour that introduces visitors to the sights, symbols and stories of Oakland. As an FYI, there are also multiple special interest tours available throughout the year. Our guide from the Historic Oakland Foundation, Gordon, shared some fantastic stories with us about those who are buried in the cemetery. As we travelled through the different cemetery sections we saw the graves of individuals such as Margaret Mitchell and Selena Sloan Butler.

      Oakland Cemetery
      Oakland Cemetery

      We were also able to see three impressive statues within the grounds. I’ll include photographs of them below. These are statues on the graves of (in order), Jasper Newton Smith (an Atlanta businessman), Mary Glover Thurman (considered the Angel of Atlanta for her charity work), and Mollie and Mary Lizzie Neal (Mary Lizzie died at age 22 and her mother died of grief five years later).

      Oakland Cemetery
      Oakland Cemetery
      Oakland Cemetery

      The cemetery is open dawn to dusk (6am to 8pm) every day of the year. You can explore the grounds on your own. I’d highly recommend visiting their gift shop.

      4. Graveyards Around Charleston

      There are so many churches in Charleston and so many graveyards. Nearly every single church within the city has an attached graveyard. We went on a general walking tour of Charleston and passed by a few. I’m including photographs of (in order), French Huguenot Church, St Michael’s Church, and St Philip’s Church.

      French Huguenot Church
      St Michael’s Church
      St Philip’s Church

      5. Colonial Park Cemetery – Savannah

      The first cemetery we visited in Savannah was the Colonial Park Cemetery – right in the middle of the city. The cemetery opened in 1750 and was closed to new burials in 1853. In 1896, the cemetery re-opened as a city park. We walked through the cemetery on our own stopping to read the numerous historic signs that are distributed throughout. For example, there is a sign over the grave of James Wilde who died during a duel. Another historic marker worth mentioning is one dedicated to the victims of the Yellow Fever Epidemic of 1820. Approximately 700 Savannah residents died during this epidemic and the majority are buried in this cemetery.

      Colonial Park Cemetery
      Colonial Park Cemetery

      Over one side of the cemetery are a number of headstones set into the wall dividing the cemetery from the building next door. Most of these burials are from the early 1800s.

      Colonial Park Cemetery

      The cemetery is open 8am to 5pm (November to March) and 8pm to 8pm (March to November).

      6. Bonaventure Cemetery – Savannah

      The final cemetery I’ll be reviewing is Bonaventure cemetery located a short drive from Savannah. This cemetery is particularly famous for its association with Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, a book by John Berendt. It is also a stunning cemetery – filled with Spanish Moss that creates a certain eeriness. We explored the cemetery on a two-hour guided tour with Shannon Scott Tours. Our guide, Jon, shared so many interesting stories not only about those who are buried in the cemetery but about cemetery traditions throughout time.

      Bonaventure Cemetery
      Bonaventure Cemetery
      Bonaventure Cemetery
      Bonaventure Cemetery

      A real highlight for me was seeing an original bell next to the tomb of Charles F Mills. A string would have gone from the bell to the coffin so if someone was accidentally buried alive they could ring the bell and be rescued. We also visited a table memorial that would have been used in the Victorian era for a picnic. Remembering that cemeteries were major recreation spaces during this time (and are sort of becoming that again today).

      Bonaventure Cemetery
      Bonaventure Cemetery

      I’d definitely go on a tour of this cemetery as it’s massive. If you do want to explore on your own, the cemetery is open 8am to 5pm daily.

      I hope this blog will encourage you to go and explore a cemetery on your travels. I have a couple more blog posts in the works for this trip and will hopefully post soon.

    • New York: The Tenement Museum

      New York: The Tenement Museum

      The final museum I’d like to review in New York is the Tenement Museum. As well as the Gilder Center (American Museum of Natural History), Tenement Museum, Ellis Island, and New York Historical Society, we visited the Whitney Museum, Museum of Modern Art, Museum of the Dog, and the 9/11 Memorial Museum. I’m glad we got to visit so many museums in New York. I cannot wait to visit more in the future! This post will focus on the Tenement Museum. This museum is located in the Lower East Side and, according to their website, shares the stories of immigrants, migrants, and refugees who settled in New York. It achieves this through guided tours of recreated apartments that are situated across two tenement buildings.

      The museum has a little something for everyone. If you enjoy house museums, social history, abandoned buildings, or even fascinating stories of New York’s past, you’ll enjoy your visit. The only way to explore the museum is on a guided tour. There are quite a few tours on offer that focus on different rooms and stories. As I read on many review sites – it’s impossible to pick a bad tour. We selected two tours – one for the morning and one for the afternoon. The following is an overview of both tours.

      After the Famine: 1869

      Our first tour of the day was After the Famine: 1869. On this tour, you hear the story of Joseph and Bridget Moore, Irish Catholic immigrants who moved to New York post-Civil War. Joseph and Bridget both came from farm/rural backgrounds and lived in Ireland during the Irish famine. It is assumed that they met after moving to New York. In the late 1860s they moved into a tenement building on 97 Orchard Street (now the museum).

      The tour is jam-packed with information about the residents and their context. It also provides insight into how these stories were uncovered. When the museum purchased the tenement buildings, they had no idea who lived there and what history could be told. Uncovering these stories has taken massive amounts of research and community engagement.

      For this tour, you start by climbing approximately 68 stairs and heading into an abandoned-looking tenement apartment. Standing here, you get a real sense of the history of the building and how many stories can be found within its walls. For example, in the photograph below you can see the layers of wallpaper found in one room.

      Layers of Wallpaper
      Hallway of Building

      Before seeing the reconstructed apartment, we learnt about Irish immigration to New York and where the Moore family lived prior to this building. We then visited the Moore’s apartment and spent some time exploring the three rooms. One room was designated as a bedroom, one a kitchen, and one a living room. With up to nine residents per apartment, all rooms would have functioned as bedrooms. We continued to hear their story throughout. Finally, to conclude the tour, we discussed the Saint Patrick’s Day parade origins and how residents of New York viewed the Irish immigrants. Overall, a great tour to start our museum experience.

      Reconstructured Apartment
      Reconstructured Apartment
      Reconstructured Apartment

      100 Years Apart

      Our second tour of the day was 100 Years Apart. It poses the question, what do a 19th century German-Jewish immigrant family, and a 20th century Chinese immigrant family have in common? In short, more than you think. Throughout this tour you hear the stories of the Wong family and Gumpertz family. In both cases, the women thrived in the garment industry either being the sole contributors or major contributors to their family’s financial situation.

      To start the tour, we visited the museum’s new building housing the garment shop of Mrs Wong. This is a very interactive space as you can hear stories direct from the family by activating sewing machines, toys, and cooking utensils. We had about half an hour in this room to explore.

      Reconstructured Apartment

      We then visited the original building to learn about Julius and Natalie Gumpertz. The Gumpertz family immigrated from modern-day Germany in the 1880s and lived in this building. During the Panic of 1873, Julius left the family, and Natalie was suddenly forced to provide for her three daughters. She started a garment shop and guided her family through financial hardship. This was my favourite story from the tour.

      Reconstructured Apartment
      Reconstructured Apartment

      Visitor Information

      The Tenement Museum shares critical stories about New York’s past in an engaging and interactive way. You can book your tours online prior to visiting which will guarantee you a space. I’d recommend making a day of it and going on at least two tours. Plenty of delicious lunch options around! There is an accessible tour available that bypasses the stairs.

      My next blog post is going to focus on all the historic cemeteries we have visited in New York, Atlanta, Charleston, and Savannah.

    • New York: Ellis Island

      New York: Ellis Island

      A lot has happened since my last post. We left New York for Atlanta, spent a few days exploring Atlanta, and are now heading further south to Charleston and Savannah. There are a couple of museums and heritage places I still want to review from New York. And maybe one or two from Atlanta. For New York, I definitely want to write about the Ellis Island Hard Hat Tour and the Tenement Museum. This post will focus on Ellis Island and our experience of their Hard Hat Tour offering.

      Overview of Ellis Island Immigration Museum

      Ellis Island Entrance

      Between 1892 and 1954, just over 12 million immigrants passed through Ellis Island, hoping to become American citizens. Today, the original processing building is now the Ellis Island Immigration Museum. The museum has a variety of exhibitions currently on display that tell a diversity of stories. You can also visit the Registry Room, a hall where new arrivals waited to be inspected and registered. If you are short on time, I recommend seeing the Registry Room and visiting the exhibition Through America’s Gate.

      Registry Room

      This is a fantastic place to start as it guides you step-by-step through the immigration experience. The exhibition is spread throughout legal hearing rooms and detention quarters that have been restored to their 1918 appearance. Each room displays a different theme, including one titled Six-Second Specialists. In this room you can learn about the medical examination of new arrivals and see objects such as a buttonhook that was used during eye examinations. Doctors would lift someone’s eyelid with the hook looking for signs of trachoma – an infectious disease that causes blindness.

      Eye Examination

      Moving through there are some intriguing objects and great contextualising graphics such as the one photographed below.

      Immigration Process

      The rest of this post is going to focus on the medical processes and inspections. Those who didn’t pass the initial inspection and further medical examinations were sent to the hospital. If the disease or disability was determined to be incurable, their application was rejected and they had to return to their point of origin. Today, the only way to access the hospital buildings is on the Hard Hat Tour. I say buildings because there were two hospitals – one for general and one for infectious/contagious diseases.

      Hard Hat Tour

      In total, the Hard Hat Tour lasts around 90 minutes and visits the Ellis Island Hospital sites located on the south side of the island. After a short introduction, we put on our hard hats and ventured into the ruins. The reason for hard hats is for the safety of visitors, as some of the areas you walk through are pretty rustic. I’m going to take you through a few sections of the tour sharing photographs and some comments. Even if you’re not as interested in all things medical, I would still recommend this tour. Not just for the behind-the-scenes feel, but throughout the tour you can see an art exhibit, ‘Unframed – Ellis Island’, by artist JR. These are pastings or blown up archival images glued to the walls. I’ll make sure to share some of these artworks.

      Hard Hat Tour Hall

      The tour begins in the laundry room, where over 3 000 pieces of laundry were washed each day. There is still quite a bit of equipment remaining including the large washers.

      Laundry Room

      After leaving the laundry, we spent some time outside viewing the facade of the general hospital and psychiatric ward. From here, we walked down to the hospital for contagious and infectious diseases.

      Infectious Disease Hospital

      In this section of the tour, you follow the spine of the hospital, or the corridor that linked all the wards and rooms together. One of these rooms functioned as a morgue and a place for autopsies. The original mortuary cabinet still remains. You can see from the photograph that the room was also used for teaching. Doctors from around America could visit Ellis Island, witness an autopsy, and learn about new and different diseases.

      Mortuary
      Dissecting Room

      After leaving the morgue, we continued down the spine to one of the wards. In here we learnt about how infectious diseases were managed and what original social distancing and air filtration methods were applied.

      Hospital Ward

      To finish the tour we visited one of the surgery rooms where there are a couple of JP pastings on the wall.

      Surgery Theatre
      Surgery Theatre

      This is truly just a brief overview of the entire tour. If you are visiting Ellis Island, definitely consider adding this tour to your list. Please note there are accessibility restrictions.

    • New York: Gilder Center

      New York: Gilder Center

      As soon as we booked tickets for New York my Instagram algorithm bombarded me with videos and images of the newly opened (2023) Gilder Center for Science, Education, and Innovation. This Center is a four-storey extension of the American Museum of Natural History, housing an insectarium, butterfly vivarium, and some displays that highlight the museum’s collection. This post is going to focus on the architecture of the Center and the Invisible Worlds Immersive Experience.

      Architecture of the Center

      The architecture of the Center is stunning – absolutely stunning. It was designed by Studio Gang, an architecture and urban design firm led by architect Jeanne Gang. They wanted to create a physically and visually accessible space that sparks curiosity and raises awareness of climate change. It was also designed to be exciting, to encourage exploration and discovery for kids and adults alike. On a more practical level, the Center was built to assist with crowd management, improving visitor circulation throughout the wider museum. I’m going to share a couple of photographs then reveal whether or not I feel it met these goals.

      Gilder Center Architecture

      Personally, I found this to be one of the most architecturally beautiful spaces within a museum I have ever visited. It most certainly sparked my curiosity and made me feel like I was a little insect inside a huge nest. As we walked around, it started to feel more like an above ground cave system that we were exploring. The sense of scale is unbelievable. We had to sit for a while to truly take it all in.

      The finishing look/texture was achieved by spraying structural concrete onto reinforced steel foundations. This is what gives the structure a more cave-like appearance. While sitting, we saw this cute sign:

      Gilder Center Sign

      Walking around the Center, we found the signage very clear and we easily made our way through the space. From our experience, it helped with crowd management simply by offering another building where crowds could be dispersed. Everything about it was a massive tick in my book and I am so glad we decided to add this to our itinerary. After admiring the architecture, we visited the third floor for the Invisible Worlds Immersive Experience.

      Invisible Worlds

      Projections in museums seem to be popular at the moment as people want to have experiences that are more interactive. I am not the biggest fan of projections but decided to pay the extra $6 fee as the website mentioned something about the human brain.

      After walking through a couple of context rooms, you enter this huge room filled with projections covering the walls and floor. The whole purpose of this experience is to make the invisible, visible. According to their website, ‘Invisible Worlds explores networks of life at all scales – including some that are too fast, too small, or too slow for the human eye’. Everything from the cells in a leaf to the neural pathways in the brain. There are parts of the experience where you get to be more interactive by, for example, stepping on neurons to generate the neural pathways. No surprises here but that was my favourite part. The projections are on a 12-minute loop.

      Invisible Worlds

      It was a pretty impressive experience and worth adding if you like this kind of interactive or if you are interested in the microscopic world. I was pleasantly surprised by how much I enjoyed the experience.

      Visiting Information

      I would strongly recommend pre-booking your ticket for the American Museum of Natural History. We are here during a low season for tourism and the line was out the door and almost two blocks down the street by opening time. We could cut the queue and go straight in with our pre-purchased tickets. If you want an interactive experience, add Invisible Worlds to your ticket. Otherwise, just seeing the Gilder Center is reason enough to spend a morning/afternoon/day here.

    • New York: New York Historical Society

      New York: New York Historical Society

      I’ve been in New York for a couple of days now and still cannot believe I’m here. We have packed so much into the last two days! I am only now getting a moment to pause and write. I won’t be covering every museum we visit in New York, as there will just be too many. Instead, I’m going to select a few highlights. So far, we have visited the Museum of Modern Art, the American Museum of Natural History, the New York Historical Society, and the Whitney Museum of American Art. I definitely want to review the new Gilder Center for Science Education and Innovation, so watch this space. In this post, I want to cover the New York Historical Society, which is right next door to the American Museum of Natural History. We’ve been to New York a few times before and this museum has never crossed our radar. We were so impressed with the exhibitions and felt the museum provided an overview of the city that has added much to our visit. I’m going to take you through a couple of exhibitions that are currently on display, starting with Real Clothes, Real Lives.

      Real Clothes, Real Lives Overview

      This exhibition is located on the top floor of the museum (level 4) and focuses on 200 years of women’s fashion. Each object on display is not a pristine example, but something that has been worn and even mended. Rather than being displayed chronologically, the objects are organised into categories. For example, there is a section on workwear and another on rites of passage. It is quite a large exhibition with a good mix of thematic panels and interesting object labels attached to oversized clipboards. The labels feature text and images, with some showing extra details such as the interior lining of a dress or the object being worn in context. I am purposefully not saying clothing because there are quite a few accessories also on display. There are two aspects of this exhibition I want to focus on: the excellent use of glass display cases and a couple of highlight objects.

      Excellent Use of Glass Display Cases

      On a number of glass display cases are little extra segments of information that assist with viewing the objects. My favourite example is when you first enter the exhibition space there is a black and white work dress from the 1860s. Printed on the glass is a small circle with a close-up of the mourning print on the dress. This is a great way to display extra information without adding length to the label. None of these glass case labels distract from the object and, in my experience, cut down on visitor fatigue. As soon as I got tired from reading the labels, I switched to focusing on the glass labels and their snippets of information.

      Mourning Print

      Another great use of glass display cases is in the first half of the exhibition. In its own glass case is a work bodice circa 1860 that was mended in the 1880s. It is a rare example of clothing from that time that allowed for greater mobility at work. In order to see the details, you have to press a button that temporarily lights up the object. A tick for conservation but also added a sense of exploration to the object.

      Conservation Display

      Highlight Objects

      Where to even begin. There are some wonderful objects on display that really contextualise women’s history more broadly. Because of who I am, I was really drawn to the objects associated with grief. In particular, the black mourning bonnets made from silk crepe. It was interesting to read about mourning wear and how after World War I mourning rituals were mostly discarded due to the death toll from the War.

      Mourning Bonnets

      The other highlight I noted is a yellow housedress from the 1930s. Known as ‘invisible’ dresses, these cotton housedresses were not featured in catalogues or magazines. They were worn by hard-working women during a time of great economic hardship. The history this dress represents is why I selected it as a highlight.

      Invisible Dress

      My final highlight is a black housedress and apron from the 1950s. The object label shows this exact dress for sale in a 1950s magazine so you can see how it was advertised. Next to the dress is a curler cap with some hair rollers inside that were used, according to the label, to achieve that ‘bouffant hairdo’.

      Dress and Apron

      Tiffany Lamps

      After leaving the fashion exhibition, we went to see a collection of over 100 Tiffany lamps. Photographs cannot capture how beautiful this exhibition is and how the use of light draws your eyes to the details in the lamps. As we were walking around, a volunteer guide pointed out some must-see lamps. One of which is a lamp I forgot to photograph so I will describe. Basically, the lamp shows the ripening of fruit throughout the year, through the different seasons. I would have completely missed this detail. The guide also shared with us that the lamps were not designed by Louis Tiffany, but by designer Clara Driscoll. Tiffany approved the final designs. This was only discovered recently through letters Driscoll wrote to her family.

      Tiffany Lamps

      The following lamps were my favourite.

      Tiffany Lamp Roses
      Tiffany Lamp Pear
      Tiffany Lamp Wisteria

      Logistical Information

      This is truly just the tip of the iceberg of what to see in the museum. On the same floor as these exhibitions, there is a large exhibition on Presidents with a replica Oval Office. Add to that another floor of exhibitions – there is plenty to see and do here.

      The New York Historical Society is open Tuesday to Sunday from 11am to 5pm (8pm on Fridays). It is paid admission with pay-as-you-wish on Fridays between 5pm and 8pm. For more information, see their webpage: https://www.nyhistory.org/visit.